Alcalá de Herares is one of the lesser known (for tourists outside of Spain) day trips that you can take from Madrid. I had never been, which is a shame, because really it was very close. It is just NorthEast of the city. We got there in about an hour, and you can also get there in about an hour from the center of Madrid using the Cercanías (regional trains).
We went this weekend with some friends to see the town and also to go to the Museo Archqueológico Regional (English information link here). They have an special exhibit "La Cuna de la Humanidad" (the footprint of humanity) which has only before been seen in Africa.
Special exhibit
I feel like I should make the disclaimer that the museum's regular collection is only in Spanish. Since this is only a regional museum it is only about the history in what is now the providence or "Ayuntammiento" of Madrid. However the exhibits are thoughtful out together and even starts with a rather impressive Imax-eske video dating back 460,000,000 years ago to present. I had no idea that a once the "safari" animals called Spain home too!
A relic of Roman occupation, Achilles defeating the Amazonian Queen
As for the Special exhibit it was very cool to see a copy of "Lucy" and alsoof footprints of our early ancestors. It also went into great detail on the Leaky family and their contribution to our understanding of evolution.
"Lucy"
I always look for textile paraphernalia in museums. These are "fusayolas" which mean spindle whorls in Spanish. I have more pictures of more whorls from this museum, but that might get it's own post. If they are like other spindles I have seen here in Spain, they probably had a carved shaft, about 25-30cm long, with a spiral leading to a point at one end to encourage the fiber to rotate off the point. However there was no information here.
The absolute best thing about this museum (or my favorite, anyway) was the tiny gift shop. Now, I have been to many museums and they are usually filled with t-shirts, postcards and books, not that those things are bad, but this museum had replicas and kits! Look I got a spindle whorl replica and a cave painting kit (complete with dye stuff, background stone and your own stick brush with hair at one end). I love this kind of thing. These alone made my whole day.
Across the street from the museum is the Archbishop's palace, which was very photogenic.
Catalina de Aragón
We also saw the house were Cervantes was born Spanish link, English link. That house had two spinning wheels and an old fashioned bobbin winder! Unfortunately taking photos was not allowed inside.
Image taken from the museum's website.
The beautiful Cervantes plaza already has huge roses blooming, and was surrounded by beautiful views in all directions.
I am fascinated by the herons and their huge nests/obsession for church towers.
This Christmas I got one of the best and most thoughtful presents from my beloved Sister-in-law (SIL). She sent me 6 natural colored (same color as the sheep) skeins, two each of white, grey and dark brown. She and her partner had toured the countryside in Catalonia at the end of September and ended up going to Fabrica de lanas de Arségual. An actual Spanish mill, with a really mule-Jenny! I had no idea that there was a working mill here in Spain, let alone one so historic!
Since there are a lot of blog/videos/ information about this mill in both Spanish and Catalan I thought I would do a post in English, even if I have yet to visit the mill, after all, I do now have 6 very precious Spanish made skeins. Hopefully I will have translated all of the information right. If any of you have ever been there and have corrections/additions, let me know.
The mill was closed to visitors on the day my SIL went, but she was able to take pictures of the outside the mill and inside the shop. All photos are taken by my SIL unless otherwise noted.
This historic mill is located near the very small town of Arséguel in Catalonia. Here is a link to their website (in Spanish).
The mill
It is completely run on hydroelectric energy, a water-wheel is powered by the river Segre that travels down a kilometer and a half long channel that ends in a 10 meter waterfall. The carders, the mule-jenny and the looms are run on this power. The only non hydro electric energy they use is for the lightbulbs in the factory.
Segre river
Bridge that crosses over the river to the mill
The family that owns the mill have been spinners since 1695 and have been in the building that the mill is now housed since 1902. The machinery that is still in use has been in use since the 18th century.
Luckily for me, the store was open, and she was able to buy me some yarn.
Shop door
Blankets for sale
The mill sells the yarn, socks and blankets....and admits that the yarn has a very rustic feel "The socks made from our wool is adequate for a rigorous climb in the Pyrenees, or a nice sturdy blanket for a shepherd....it might not be comfortable to wear this wool next to your skin". The blankets are made by hydraulic powered looms and the socks are hand cranked on a circular sock knitting machine.
In the picture below you can see what I believe to be the sock knitting machine on the lower right and on the lower left, some sort of electric sock blockers. The yarn in the back is for sale.
Like I said it is possible to take a guided tour, but since my SIL was not able to I have chosen to highlight some photos/videos from Spanish/Catalonian bloggers who have toured it. All sources are noted under the photos. If you read Spanish I invite you to take a look at their posts.
Here is short video that briefly shows a lot of their equipment, and the process.
There are six different machines that the wool passes through to be picked and carded before going to the spinning machines.
One blog states that the picker is known as el diablo (the devil) I wonder if that is just for this particular picker, or for all of them? They do have wicked teeth, I am sure that is where the name comes from.
They also have an antique hydroelectric powered loom (15 meters long!) that they use to make the blankets. For more photos of the looms and even a photo of their pattern pegs go to this blog (Spanish)
They also have conserved on site, but not in use, a 17th century"Draper mill"carder made of thistles. Fun fact in Spanish thistle is "cardos" and the verb to card is "cardar".
Finally here is a more general video about the mill if you are craving more it is image only, no commentary.
Because this town is so small and remote I am pretty sure the only way to get there is by car. A lot of the wooly attraction in Spain are remote and only reachable by car, which is probably why you do not see more of these posts from me (I have yet to drive in Spain).
Things I still find very odd about Spain/Madrid after 2.5 years...
Since I live in Madrid some of these things might only be local phenomenon.
Disclaimer: These things are not bad things, just things that this American still finds odd.
The knife sharpener - afilador de cuchillos
These guys cycle around the neighborhood playing pan pipes to et everyone know that they are there. The point is that they will sharpen your knives. You go down and meet them and then you can have your knives nice and sharp without you having to really transport them far. While part of me thinks that this is charming, another part of me would never go running to a stranger on the street and offer him a knife.
That is the best name I can think of for them. It is really a serious throwback to the 60's when you hear them. They're vans that play an advertisement on a loop blasted from a speaker atop the van. The ads are mostly directed towards housewives (at least the ones I have heard). Seriously, people still advertise this way, no web pages for them! It is not even a good way to advertise as the commercials are often so long that you only hear part of it. Often you hear only part of a phone number too.
Christmas presents are brought by the three kings....
It is a reminder that you are far from home when you realize that every country has their own Christmas traditions. In Spain the presents are brought, by camel, by the Three Kings on January 6th. Making Spain one of the countries that actually celebrate the 12 days of Christmas. Although increasingly kids are getting their presents on the 25th of December so as to have time to play with them on Christmas break.
I won't get into the problems I have had with Veterinarians here, but the lack of appointment is still odd to this day. You could wait for hours or minutes.
(I have also witnessed at least two Vets leave a patient under anestesia in surgery to see other clients. (Shudder))
The last Metro leaves the first stop of the route at 1:30 am
In Spain where Dinner is at 10pm, going for tapas can last late into the night, and "Discos" open at 2am - the metro time table just des not make sense.
Any of you who know me in person know that I LOVE the Romantic style of gardens. My favorite garden in the world is Parc del Laberint d'Horta in Barcelona (previous blog post link), and I am afraid that I compare all romantic gardens, even the Generalife of the Alhambra to the Parc d'Horta So when my husband said that there was a Romantic style park right by the Alhambra, we made a point to see it. I loved it so much, I am going give it a post of it's very own.
You are greeted at the gate by this dripping grotto
The park is called,Carmen de los Mártires and it is located within a 10 minute walk from the front gates of the Alhambra. If you love gardens, do not miss the chance to see this one. "Los Mártires" means "the Martyrs" and according to this article it (I roughly translate) "...The place from which Boabdil left to hand over his beloved city to Christians. (Queen) Isabella built a chapel at the site in memory of that day. Later she built a convent and, on its ruins, a small palace. " The same article also goes on to describe the gardens like this: "...Pieces of history, splendor and ruin, ordered chaos. Garden, kitchen garden, island, lake, courtyard, a garden of gardens." Which I think is a beautiful way to describe a romantic style garden.
I must own a light like that one day
If for some reason you can not get tickets to the Alhambra, you could enter in the small courtyard in this Palace to get an idea of the splendor.
The courtyard
Romantic style gardens give the wonderful feeling of old grandeur, of simple lines marked here and there with pieces of exquisite detail.
A serene "room" in the garden
Click to enlarge, this door is beautiful
The little boxwoods formed tiny mazes!
A Madroño, one of the symbols of Madrid
Palms with a distant peek of the mountains
This garden was also on a hill and afforded beautiful views of the city and the distant mountains.
Another view of the city, a view of another lookout point
What is a romantic garden without an ornamental river? It was feed by a working aqueduct!
For a while we had an honor guard as we walked
One of my favorite things about these types of gardens is the contrast. Around the house the gardens are highly structure and manicured, but there is always an area more natural where one can just walk at peace.
There are grand entryways where you can almost see the past's guest in their finery.
You can come across little surprises in these gardens too.
If you have two or more hours to spare and you like gardens and parks you will not want to miss this one. Have you been here before?
